How
do I know if my pet has fleas?
Fleas are small, brown insects that are usually 2-3 mm
in length. Unless your pet is severely infested, you
might not even notice that he/she has fleas. Many cats
are such fastidious groomers, that fleas can be
difficult to find. A telltale sign of fleas can be “flea
dirt” on your pet. Flea dirt is actually the flea’s
feces and looks similar to pepper flakes on your pet’s
skin. When damp, flea dirt turns red, as it primarily
contains ingested blood from your pet. If you find just
one adult flea, you can be sure there are at least 100
more fleas developing in your pet’s environment.
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How
do I get rid of my pet’s fleas?
Successful flea control involves a combination of the
following:
 Eliminating
fleas from your pet(s)
The simplest method for killing adult fleas fast is by
applying a topical product such as
Frontline Plus® or
AdvantageMulti® directly to your pet.
Controlling
fleas in the environment
Eliminating fleas in environment may be more difficult,
but is necessary to end your flea infestation. Vacuum
your house every day and wash your pet’s bedding to
physically remove flea eggs, larvae, and pupae. Empty
your vacuum bag/filter after each use and remove it from
your home. Vacuuming frequently not only removes flea
offspring, the warmth and vibration of the vacuum may
stimulate the flea life cycle to continue, so adult
fleas emerge quicker, and consequently die faster.
Use a flea spray or fogger containing an IGR (Insect
Growth Regulator) to inhibit the hatching of flea eggs
and prevent larval development. Please read all
warning labels before use and be cautious around other
pets, especially birds and fish, small children, and
food items. Many products require you to vacate the
area during use and for several hours afterwards.
In severe flea infestations, it may be beneficial to
call an exterminator.
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Will I get fleas from my pet?
Fleas prefer to live on dogs, cats, rabbits, ferrets,
and other animals, but will bite humans when searching
for a meal. Fleas typically do not live on people, but
will gladly nibble on our ankles or arms when available.
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What do you recommend for flea prevention?
Starting your pet on a flea prevention program is the
simplest way to avoid the battle of infestation. We
recommend topical products such as
Frontline Plus® or
AdvantageMulti® that are applied directly to your
pet’s skin. Both products have a wide margin of safety,
have been proven to be effective, and will kill fleas
for 1 month. We do not recommend using flea collars,
shampoos, dips, or powders. These products contain older
pyrethrin based insecticides that can cause reactions
and are less effective. Generic topical products found
over the counter are not recommended either. When
using any insecticide on a pet, be sure to read the
entire warning label and instructions and verify that
the product is made to be used on the correct species
and weight of animal. Never use a product designed for
dogs on a cat!
We recommend using topical flea control all year long
for your pet’s best protection. Even in the winter
months, fleas have been known to hatch out after a few
mild days.
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Are fleas dangerous to my pet?
Fleas carry several diseases that can be transmitted to
pets. The flea is also an intermediate host for
tapeworms, so if your pet happens to swallow a flea
during grooming, he/she can get intestinal tapeworms.
Fleas indulge in several blood meals daily, feeding for
3-4 hours at a time. With an average intake of 13.6mg of
blood daily and 15 times her body weight in her
lifetime, a flea infestation can easily lead to anemia
in your pet. Besides the obvious discomfort and itching
that fleas cause, some pets are actually allergic to
flea saliva and can develop a skin condition called
allergic dermatitis.
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How did my pet get fleas?
Even indoor pets can get fleas. Any area that is
inhabited by other pets or wildlife such as foxes,
squirrels, mice, rabbits, possums, and raccoons may be
infested with fleas. A stroll around the block, a visit
to the groomer, or a bathroom break in the back yard are
all simple ways a pet can pick up fleas. Even indoor
cats can get fleas from mice caught in the home.
Gardens, sheds, parks, and wooded areas can all be
environments with fleas |
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The Flea Life Cycle
Considering the adult flea only makes up 5 % of the flea
population, understanding the entire flea life cycle is
key to controlling a flea infestation.
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Fleas are metamorphic, meaning that they change their
form and structure as they grow from eggs into adults,
much the same as butterflies do. Their development
includes four main life stages: eggs, larvae, pupae, and
adult fleas. (Similar to the butterfly’s cycle: egg,
caterpillar, cocoon, adult butterfly) The entire length
of the flea’s life cycle can vary from two weeks to 1
year, depending on environmental conditions. At any
given time, a flea population is typically made up of
50% eggs, 30% larvae, 15% pupae, and 5% adult fleas. By
the time you discover live fleas on your pet, they have
already successfully infested your home!
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Optimum temperatures for fleas range from 70 to 85
degrees Fahrenheit with humidity levels at 70% to 80%.
Fleas have little chance for survival once the
temperature drops below freezing 32 degrees Fahrenheit
for several consecutive days. However, they are hardy
little parasites and will seek out warm places or bodies
to survive. The adult female flea mates after taking her
first blood meal and begins producing eggs in just 1 to
2 days. Eggs are laid on the pet and roll off into the
environment wherever your pet goes. One flea can lay up
to 50 eggs in one day and over 2,000 in her lifetime.
Flea eggs may be visible with the naked eye, but they
are very small, about the size of a grain of salt.
 Within
the following week, eggs will hatch into larvae that
resemble tiny white worms about 2-5 mm long. Larvae
prefer to hide in dark places such as grass, soil,
carpet, sand, and gravel. Flea larvae feed on the adult
flea’s feces and will typically molt twice within the
next 3 weeks. Since larvae thrive in warm, dark, and
humid environments, our homes are the ideal breeding
grounds for fleas.
About 1 week later, the larvae molt a third time,
developing into a pupa or cocoon. Pupae are encased
inside their own protective silk layer, making them
invincible against insecticides. This is the only stage
of the flea life cycle that can not be broken, because
pupae are virtually indestructible. Fleas can survive
for months and possibly up to 1 year in their cocoon
state.
Adult fleas that have developed inside their protective
cocoons will hatch when conditions become most
favorable. Fleas can detect warmth, movement, and carbon
dioxide in exhaled breath, and these three factors
stimulate them to emerge as new adults. The life cycle
starts all over again; under ideal conditions, the
entire life cycle may only take 2 weeks, and in no time
at all, fleas have infested your pet and home.
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Important flea facts to remember!
Flea pupae are virtually indestructible; no insecticide
can kill them. All pupae must hatch into adults
before they can ever be killed. It can take several
weeks or months for pupae to hatch. Encouraging them to
hatch by vacuuming is the quickest way to start
eliminating your infestation.
Treat ALL pets in your home. Some pets are good at
hiding signs of an infestation, but if just one flea is
found, all pets in the household will have fleas and
should be treated.
When fleas come into contact with an insecticide, they
go through an excitatory state preceding death. As the
chemical reaches a flea’s brain, they may become more
active. So if it looks like your flea problem is
actually getting worse after treatment, it is most
likely due to the fact that the fleas are beginning to
die.
You’re not alone! Flea infestations are a very common
problem for all pet owners. Having fleas does not mean
that your home is unsanitary or that you are a “bad” pet
owner. A flea infestation can be an educational
experience and positive proof of the power of
prevention!
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