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Flea Facts

How do I know if my pet has fleas?
Fleas are small, brown insects that are usually
2-3 mm in length. Unless your pet is severely infested, you might
not even notice that he/she has fleas. Many cats are such
fastidious groomers, that fleas can be difficult to find. A
telltale sign of fleas can be “flea dirt” on your pet. Flea dirt is
actually the flea’s feces and looks similar to pepper flakes on your
pet’s skin. When damp, flea dirt turns red, as it primarily
contains ingested blood from your pet. If you find just one adult
flea, you can be sure there are at least 100 more fleas developing
in your pet’s environment.
The Flea Life Cycle
Considering the adult flea only makes up 5 % of
the flea population, understanding the entire flea life cycle is key
to controlling a flea infestation.

Fleas are metamorphic, meaning that they change their form and
structure as they grow from eggs into adults, much the same as
butterflies do. Their development includes four main life stages:
eggs, larvae, pupae, and adult fleas. (Similar to the
butterfly’s cycle: egg, caterpillar, cocoon, adult butterfly) The
entire length of the flea’s life cycle can vary from two weeks to 1
year, depending on environmental conditions. At any given time, a
flea population is typically made up of 50% eggs, 30% larvae, 15%
pupae, and 5% adult fleas. By the time you discover live fleas on
your pet, they have already successfully infested your home!
Optimum temperatures for fleas range from 70 to 85 degrees
Fahrenheit with humidity levels at 70% to 80%. Fleas have little
chance for survival once the temperature drops below freezing 32
degrees Fahrenheit for several consecutive days. However, they are
hardy little parasites and will seek out warm places or bodies to
survive. The adult female flea mates after taking her first blood
meal and begins producing eggs in just 1 to 2 days. Eggs are laid
on the pet and roll off into the environment wherever your pet
goes. One flea can lay up to 50 eggs in one day and over 2,000 in
her lifetime. Flea eggs may be visible with the naked eye, but they
are very small, about the size of a grain of salt.
Within the following week, eggs will hatch into larvae that resemble
tiny white worms about 2-5 mm long. Larvae prefer to hide in dark
places such as grass, soil, carpet, sand, and gravel. Flea larvae
feed on the adult flea’s feces and will typically molt twice within
the next 3 weeks. Since larvae thrive in warm, dark, and humid
environments, our homes are the ideal breeding grounds for fleas.
About 1 week later, the larvae molt a third time, developing into a
pupa or cocoon. Pupae are encased inside their own protective silk
layer, making them invincible against insecticides. This is the
only stage of the flea life cycle that can not be broken, because
pupae are virtually indestructible. Fleas can survive for months
and possibly up to 1 year in their cocoon state.
Adult fleas that have developed inside their protective cocoons
will hatch when conditions become most favorable. Fleas can detect
warmth, movement, and carbon dioxide in exhaled breath, and these
three factors stimulate them to emerge as new adults. The life
cycle starts all over again; under ideal conditions, the entire life
cycle may only take 2 weeks, and in no time at all, fleas have
infested your pet and home.
How do I get rid of my pet’s fleas?
Successful flea control involves a combination of the following:
The simplest method for killing adult fleas fast is by applying a
topical product such as
Frontline Plus®
or Advantage®
directly to your pet.
Eliminating fleas in environment may be more difficult, but is
necessary to end your flea infestation. Vacuum your house every day
and wash your pet’s bedding to physically remove flea eggs, larvae,
and pupae. Empty your vacuum bag/filter after each use and remove
it from your home. Vacuuming frequently not only removes flea
offspring, the warmth and vibration of the vacuum may stimulate the
flea life cycle to continue, so adult fleas emerge quicker, and
consequently die faster.
Use a flea spray or fogger containing an IGR (Insect Growth
Regulator) to inhibit the hatching of flea eggs and prevent larval
development. Please read all warning labels before use and be
cautious around other pets, especially birds and fish, small
children, and food items. Many products require you to vacate
the area during use and for several hours afterwards.
In
severe flea infestations, it may be beneficial to call an
exterminator.
Will
I get fleas from my pet?
Fleas prefer to live on dogs, cats, rabbits, ferrets, and other
animals, but will bite humans when searching for a meal. Fleas
typically do not live on people, but will gladly nibble on our
ankles or arms when available.
What do you recommend for flea prevention?
Starting your pet on a flea prevention program is the simplest way
to avoid the battle of infestation. We recommend topical products
such as Frontline
Plus® or
Advantage® that are applied directly to your pet’s skin.
Both products have a wide margin of safety, have been proven to be
effective, and will kill fleas for 1 month. We do not recommend
using flea collars, shampoos, dips, or powders. These products
contain older pyrethrin based insecticides that can cause reactions
and are less effective. Generic topical products found over the
counter are not recommended either. When using any insecticide
on a pet, be sure to read the entire warning label and instructions
and verify that the product is made to be used on the correct
species and weight of animal. Never use a product designed for dogs
on a cat!
We
recommend using topical flea control all year long for your pet’s
best protection. Even in the winter months, fleas have been known
to hatch out after a few mild days.
Are fleas dangerous to my pet?
Fleas carry several diseases that can be transmitted to pets. The
flea is also an intermediate host for tapeworms, so if your pet
happens to swallow a flea during grooming, he/she can get intestinal
tapeworms. Fleas indulge in several blood meals daily, feeding for
3-4 hours at a time. With an average intake of 13.6mg of blood
daily and 15 times her body weight in her lifetime, a flea
infestation can easily lead to anemia in your pet. Besides the
obvious discomfort and itching that fleas cause, some pets are
actually allergic to flea saliva and can develop a skin condition
called allergic dermatitis.
How
did my pet get fleas?
Even indoor pets can get fleas. Any area that is inhabited by other
pets or wildlife such as foxes, squirrels, mice, rabbits, possums,
and raccoons may be infested with fleas. A stroll around the block,
a visit to the groomer, or a bathroom break in the back yard are all
simple ways a pet can pick up fleas. Even indoor cats can get fleas
from mice caught in the home. Gardens, sheds, parks, and wooded
areas can all be environments with fleas.
Important flea facts to remember!
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Flea pupae are virtually
indestructible; no insecticide can kill them. All pupae must
hatch into adults before they can ever be killed. It can
take several weeks or months for pupae to hatch. Encouraging
them to hatch by vacuuming is the quickest way to start
eliminating your infestation.
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Treat ALL pets in your home. Some pets are
good at hiding signs of an infestation, but if just one flea is
found, all pets in the household will have fleas and should be
treated.
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When fleas come into contact with an
insecticide, they go through an excitatory state preceding
death. As the chemical reaches a flea’s brain, they may become
more active. So if it looks like your flea problem is actually
getting worse after treatment, it is most likely due to the fact
that the fleas are beginning to die.
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You’re not alone! Flea infestations are a
very common problem for all pet owners. Having fleas does not
mean that your home is unsanitary or that you are a “bad” pet
owner. A flea infestation can be an educational experience and
positive proof of the power of prevention!
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